Leaving Ann Arbor to Explore the "Thumb Area" Lake Shores of Michigan

Cranes stretching over mountains of building materials, like praying mantises ready to eat.  People in their cars stretching their necks, (beyond what is normal) to find a parking space near Main Street.  Bumper to bumper traffic, due to city street closures and another downtown festival. Temperatures in the upper-eighties making sharing the humid air more difficult.  University of Michigan students moving back in for the new school year… — I left Ann Arbor.

Even after I got out of Ann Arbor, I still had to go through traffic stops on 23 North.  60 MPH then 45 MPH then 70 MPH.  Back and forth until I set myself back in my seat and relaxed.  I started focusing more on the scenery than the time I was spending on the road. 

Once I decided  to head for the “Thumb” area of Michigan, I figured being prepared was crucial.  I knew the towns were small, in-between each, large, span of farmland.  

• jugs of drinking water
• spray bottle of water and dish soap (to cut through window-bug-scum)
• container full of several nut-types (for protein if restaurants didn’t look good)
• fresh carrots, celery, apples 
• a few hard-boiled eggs/yogurt
• old, empty, tupperware containers (for potential fossils)
• beach towels
• rain gear (determined the weather would not keep me inside)
• strong, reinforced map of Michigan (internet and iPhone reception may be zero)
• snorkeling gear with an emergency scuba suit (In case of intolerably cold water)
• books on rocks and fossils 

I Talked to this Man, Fishing by a Bay City Bridge
("I caught a HUGE catfish, yesterday!", he said.
He proceeded to show me a picture of it, on his cell phone)

View From One of the "Blue" Bay City Bridges I Walked Across

While I attended Michigan State University, I had a friend/roommate, Marian Gettel, who was from the Pigeon area.  It was memories of being on Lake Huron, in the “Thumb” area , with her, that made me want to return and explore the “Thumb” shoreline.

Through www.airbnb.com, I found a reasonably-priced room. I had never heard of Columbiaville, Michigan, but it looked centrally located for my plans.  

Cheese and Milk For Sale

I stayed on an organic farm homestead.  When I drove up I thought, “Where’s the house?”  I could see a small, white sign on an old barn selling goat’s milk, cheese, eggs and fresh produce.  An old, green, Chevy truck was sitting adjacent to the barn and when I spotted the truck I could see a small, stone pathway leading to a home. 

Our Acres Drive

One of the owners, Robin, greeted me and showed me to my room.  It was about dinner time and I asked about a local restaurant.  She said I could eat their simple dinner with them, if I didn’t want to go out again.  

I was so glad I didn’t have to get back in my car.  I had a long trip and even explored Bay City for most of the afternoon, walking.  I was beat and hungry for something healthy. NOT a burger made in a restaurant chain. 

An Intern on the Farm
(He told me this chicken lets him walk it, after dinner)

Robin set a delicious quiche on the table with fresh, organic, slices of cucumber, tomatoes and even some goat’s milk.  It was heavenly!  It makes my mouth water just writing about it now. 

Esther, Home and Practicing Her Music in the Barn
(She writes her own music and is The Second String Band
(see cover of CD below)

I stayed on this farm for three nights. 

The Family Rents a Teepee, Too
(Wish I would have known, it's beautiful inside!)

 I never dreamed of how much farmland a person has to navigate through to get to the shoreline!  It was like being on a ship, looking for land in the vast, blue water.

  

When I did find the shores I had to continually look for areas I could get to the water legally.  

Sand Point

I drove an area called “Sand Point” just north of Bay Port, by Caseville.  I was sure I’d find a little, lake access ramp or park in this long stretch of land reaching out into Lake Huron.  I traveled out and back on this point, with no possibility of access. 

Private Property.  Do Not Enter.  No Public Access.  It went on and on.  It disgusted me really.  So much of shoreline is inaccessible to a Michigander. 

I hate to admit it took me awhile to get rid of the ugly mood I let this set in me.  

The lavish homes, signs of no trespassing, nicely set up beach porches, for private use only.   GRRRrrrrr!  

Boat launching ramps, state parks, county parks and township parks seemed to be the best avenue to the shore.  Even in the small towns I explored, many marinas and city parks weren’t set up for swimmers.  Actually the opposite, they discouraged swimmers or it was forbidden.

I found a beautiful off-road park, just a few miles south from Port Austin on one of my day trips.  It had a beautiful, wooden staircase, down to the lake and the beach was beautiful.  It’s called White Rock Roadside Park. I swam for three hours there, it was heavenly.  I was surprised at how many fish there were swimming with me.  I found a lot of little fossils there.

A Tourist (like me) Took This Lovely Shot For Me

The last day in the Thumb Area I made sure I visited the Sanilac Petroglyphs Historic State Park.  It’s only open a few days a week.  The DNR guide who watches over the Petroglyphs was very informative about the stones and the Native American history of the area.  The hike through the woods was a nice change from the direct sunlight I’d been getting on the beaches.

Carvings in Stone-Petrogyphs
Sacred Native American Site

Wooden Foot Bridge in Park

When I talked to my friend, Marian, on the phone, (she now lives in northern California) she asked me, “Are you going to see Turnip Rock?”  I had never heard of it before.  I soon found out Turnip Rock is only accessible by kayak or by walking over the frozen lake in the winter.  All the land around this beautiful landmark is privately owned.  I was told by some young people, who did see it by kayak, that it was a three mile trip in and out on kayak.  

Turnip Rock

When I headed west, to Boyne City, I wasn’t prepared for how long of a road trip it was across the width of Michigan!  

I didn't Know Americans Hunted Fox!

I Saw Many Small-Town Abandoned Buildings

By the time I got to my next Bread and Breakfast, the sun was beginning to set.  

Boyne City Sculpture

Historic Home in Boyne City

This View I Was Able to See - Courtesy of Homeowners
(see sign below that was on their property)

This Sign Made My Day

Hmmm, Sculpture?  In Boyne City

My favorite beach access, by far, on the Lower Peninsula, Lake Michigan side was Fisherman’s State park.  I went back two days in a row.  The first day I hit the beach, the white-caps were so strong I was getting knocked all over the place, while trying to snorkel. 

These Were NOT Baby Waves
(They were at least 3 feet high)

The next day I got there first thing in the morning. The water was calm and perfect for snorkeling.  Five hours later I waddled myself back to my vehicle. Starving but smiling.   

The next port was St. Ignace.  I was anxious to see my mom again.  No, the Mackinac Bridge Authority didn’t charge me more to get across the bridge because of all the rocks I had in my car.  It was still only four dollars to cross.  

I could smell the campfire smoke coming from the Mackinac Straits State Park as I pulled up to the toll-booth on the north side of the bridge.  Ahhh…....